Bath Fan Fab

You know when you have those moments when you're a mom and your hiding in the bathroom? Well, I had one of those moments recently. Looking up at the ceiling and thinking "oh God?" ...I actually just had one of those moments in the kitchen...anyway. I am sitting on the closed toilet seat thinking when is the hubby going to be home and how much chocolate do I have in the house. Then my thought process connected to my eyeballs and actually saw my bathroom fan. Yuck! Let's just say that it is probably the most forgotten item to clean in our bathroom.

Not only was our bathroom fan dirty, it was ugly. Picture this....

Yep, a completely serviceable and basic fan. BORING! When you're a mom you have ideas what feels like decades ago and then BOOM! You are reminded of them and not only do you remember the cool thing you wanted to try, you actually have the tools and materials to do it! In this case, it was "wouldn't painting the bathroom fan a color be cool?" And then "hey, I have some new spray paint I want to try!"

All I needed was a tarp, painting sheet, a bandana for my face and spray paint.  When I was working on the vintage door for the bathroom I picked a can of Rustoleum's Universal Advance Formula in Metallic Oil Rubbed Bronze. [Just letting y'all now that this is not sponsored. No money or gifts were exchanged].

I was lazy. I spray painted the darn thing right on my ceiling. After a thorough vacuuming, of course. First, spread whatever you are using to protect your bathroom down. I used a tarp for the floor and toilet and a painting sheet for the sink. Since our bathroom is precociously small, I stood half-hazard on the toilet and tub wall to get my painting action done. I do NOT suggest this scenario if you have room for a ladder. After a few minutes of light spraying, the standard bath fan looked a 100x better. And I didn't manage to break a leg or anything while doing it, yay me! Can you tell I am definitely an on the fly kind of girl?

The downside to spray painting your bath fan a dark color (without taking it down) is then painting the ceiling. It took about 2 coats of primer and then 2 more coats of paint. Now if I had taller ceilings...or even the standard 8' ceilings, I would have been adventurous and painted it a dark blue like Hale Navy or black. But I don't, so I went with a gray-white.

bath fan fab.png

My little "moments" are going to be much more enjoyable knowing that when I come down to earth my bath fan looks a lot nicer.

Kitchen Flooring Fiasco

Don't you just hate it when projects don't go the way you want them to?

I really do. Take our kitchen flooring for example. I want to strip off the tar paper and milk paint off the old wood flooring and refinish it. Well I got the tar paper and milk paint off with the help of a wall paper steamer. It worked like a charm.

We used a wallpaper steamer to remove tar paper and milk paint.
We used a wallpaper steamer to remove tar paper and milk paint.

But apparently we had some not so lovely black stains that did not come with wood bleach, sanding, or any other "normal" methods. The only thing that worked was a wire brush and brake cleaner.

4 different shade of gray to choose from.
4 different shade of gray to choose from.

Since we had a couple of huge spots and the hubby wasn't up for that much work {baby} we decided painted floors might be the way to go. Originally I liked white but the hubby wasn't up for it, so we decided a gray. But which one?

It was awesome! We easily agreed on a color...which hardly ever happens. I got it in flat...because I was going to varnish it. And started. It looked beautiful.

My helper with our gray kitchen floor.
My helper with our gray kitchen floor.

Then tragedy struck! I used a water based varnish and I started getting orange-ish colored splotches through the paint. YUCK! So I sanded it and tried oil based varnish. That was just as gross because it changed the beautiful gray color.

We were tempted to try white but quickly nixed that idea. So we had a problem again. Now any type of flooring we lay down has to be somewhat flexible because the subfloor has a wave in one spot that runs the depth of the room.

Yuck! It came through tons of paint!
Yuck! It came through tons of paint!

Then I started thinking of the vinyl click lock we used in the handicap bathroom. So we went with it.

Kitchen Flooring Solved

 Vinyl Click fixed our kitchen flooring problem!

Vinyl Click fixed our kitchen flooring problem!

It is fairly simple to install, we did however have to use a chalk line to make a straight edge to work with. Remember to follow-up with hairspray or shellac to make sure your line stays.

Chalk line is perfect for creating a long straight edge.
Chalk line is perfect for creating a long straight edge.
Once we got to the hall wall it went fairly quickly.
Once we got to the hall wall it went fairly quickly.
Getting the last rows in takes 2.
Getting the last rows in takes 2.
Shaw flooring in Dublin Pine
Shaw flooring in Dublin Pine

I love the new flooring! We have had it down about 4 months now and it has held very well to the kids and dogs. AND when the dishes fell and broke the flooring took it really well. Only a few scratches that you only notice if you get down and look very hard.

Every Kitchen Needs Pull Out Storage

Every Kitchen Needs Pull Out Storage pin

If you follow me on Instagram, shame on you if you don't, you will know that we are remodeling our kitchen. Well I love customized cabinets. But the cost can be quite expensive and I don't like the metal inserts you can buy. They just don't scream "custom" to me. So I solved that problem for myself. I created custom pull out storage with reclaimed wood!

The fabulous pull out storage drawers!

Excuse the old drawers. The painters tape. The whole in the wall in the corner. It's a remodel. They get messy and take way longer than you want or expect.

Crate-Look Pull Out Storage

My cabinets started out as a normal thing. We couldn't get a shelf in it. Blah. But out of that problem came a great new idea! Custom pull out drawers!! AND I could use my gorgeous wood from our old stairs that was originally going to be for our DIY range hood cover.

SO let's get started! First go check out Build Basic's awesome tutorial on installing drawers. If you want a more traditional drawer check Build Basic's basic drawer the tutorial for that is just as awesome!

I want to share this video describing my silliness when trying to remove the piece that gets attached to your drawer. Just so you don't make the same silly mistake I did.

[video src="" width="1280" height="720"][/video]

All you need is scrap lumber and screws. I seriously just went out to the garage and started scrounging for boards. I really wanted an authentic crate look. So I used pieces in varying sizes and different age, some boards have been in there awhile. I had the whole drawer built and then it was to snug. So I had to take it apart and rebuild. BLAH.

Since I had to take the first pull out drawer apart, I decided to go unconventional with my construction. I attached the drawer slides to the side pieces of the pull out. Wow, did it look weird having the sides just floating in the cabinet. But honestly it made making the drawers so much easier!

So...on with the pictures!

My boring empty cabinet.

The cabinet before the pull out storage with reclaimed faces.

I added braces to the center and sides out of stripped 2x4's.

pull out storage center brace

The pull out braces are all level, yay!

Pull out braces all finished and level!

Now you are ready for your drawer slides! Don't be silly like me and grab 2 different sizes, it worked but it would have been nice to have them the same.

The drawer slides for the fabulous pull out storage!!

The sides, back, and front bottom piece of the pull out drawer. Missing in this pic is the drawer slides piece that attach to the side.

Start at the front of the pull out drawers whn adding the bottom boards.

SO here is what a faceless crate drawer looks like. I screwed my bottom boards front to back. Remember I started with the sides hanging there and I dry fitted the back. Then I took the sides out and attached the back piece of the drawer.

Pull out drawers minus their gorgeous reclaimed faces.

You can see the screws I used to attach the bottom boards. Please, please, please don't use glue unless you are 100% positive that the drawer is going to fit. If you feel the need to glue as well as screw, make sure the drawer slides beautifully before you glue.

Screw the bottom boards to the side of your pull out drawers.

After making sure those babies were slippery like butter, I attached my faces. I LOVE that blue wood! I used shims to get that gorgeous blue face centered. I attached them using some pretty black cabinet screws.

Making sure the face of my pull out drawer is centered.

Then I cracked open the gel stain in Chestnut. Something I had in the basement and I have been loving the color. Dark enough to make the grain pop, but not overwhelming. One really nice thing about gel stain is that its nice creamy consistency wipes on super smooth like.

I stained the interior of my pull out drawers in chestnut.

A couple of coats of satin oil based poly and they are ready for filling!

My pull out drawers all ready for filling!

Another shot of those gorgeous, reclaimed, blue-faced, pull out storage drawers! LOVE!!!

My gorgeous, reclaimed, blue-faced, pull out cabinet storage!

You can read more about our kitchen remodel in DIY Reclaimed Range Hood and Stove Hood to the Rescue!

DIY Reclaimed Range Hood Cover

A reclaimed range hood cover that is easy to build and beautiful too!
A reclaimed range hood cover that is easy to build and beautiful too!

This has been one of the best weeks in a long, LONG time! We just seem to be flying through the projects this week. The week started with the Z barn door {here}, then Wednesday the whole family kicked into gear with Princess Pea and Hubby built Princess Pea's headboard and bed table while Handsome Hank and I worked on trimming out the reclaimed range hood cover, and today I managed to get all the reclaimed wood up on the range hood cover. Booya!!

So to refresh your memory, here is the link to our base we constructed.  I am going to include a picture of the range hood cover base with the trim we attached on Wednesday.

The Plywood base and trim for the reclaimed range hood cover.
The Plywood base and trim for the reclaimed range hood cover.

I trimmed out area of the range hood cover, primed, and applied the 1st coat of paint on it Thursday. I will be painting all the cabinets Simply White by Benjamin Moore. I am using the Advance paint because it is an alkyd. Advance paint is going to be more durable and have an oil paint like finish, which will come in extremely handy with a landscaper husband, 3 dogs, + 2 kids.

Trim on reclaimed range hood cover painted in Simply White.
Trim on reclaimed range hood cover painted in Simply White.

My favorite part is this project is that I used reclaimed wood siding from our house! Originally I was going to use the wood from our old stairs, but those boards would be too narrow. AND I could not hide the pretty blue paint the stairs had been painted at one time. The hubby thought I was nuts some odd years ago when I spazzed at him for demolishing the beautiful wood siding. I managed to save 8 pieces, 4 in near mint condition and it was just enough to get this job done.

Before I started attaching the reclaimed wood siding, I spray varnished the inside of the range hood cover. I used painters tape to attach newspaper to the range hood, the sides and back. I have attached a pic for ya. It would have been nice to use the fan at this point but it would have just sucked the newspaper up and not the fumes.

I used painters tape and newspaper to protect my new range hood while I spray varnished the inside.
I used painters tape and newspaper to protect my new range hood while I spray varnished the inside.

I let the varnish set a few minutes. This is the best time to play with how close the wood siding was going to be. I decided to go with 5/8" inch overlap. Now honestly this may not be the same on both sides, it is more important for that siding to be level.

I started with the front side because I had limited quantities of the wood siding.  The main reason to do the front side first, especially if it is the middle, is that it makes it easier to match the sides to the focal area. It is more aesthetically pleasing when your rows wrap smoothly around to the sides.

The first row is most important because it sets the tone of how the project will go. You want that sucker level and with a smidgen of a gap on the ends for expansion and contraction. The gap isn't as important if you go from heat to air conditioning, but I love my windows open so gap it was for me.

To attach the first row use construction adhesive and nails.

The first row of wood siding is glued on the reclaimed range hood cover.
The first row of wood siding is glued on the reclaimed range hood cover.
Simple and small nails hold the first row of wood siding on the reclaimed range hood cover.
Simple and small nails hold the first row of wood siding on the reclaimed range hood cover.

My sides were too small to use our smallest level to check so it was nice having the front 90% finished to tackle the sides. I used my levels to leave tiny marks on the trim so I would know where level was for each piece of siding. Simply just match the bottom of the siding piece to the marks on each side.

I quickly got the wood siding up on the range hood cover.
I quickly got the wood siding up on the range hood cover.

The most difficult part of this project is the sides. We have an angled ceiling there so it took me a couple of tries to get it perfect. When I did though it was awesome. All I had to do was reverse the shape and it fit the opposite side. Whoot!

My test piece of wood siding on the reclaimed range hood cover.
My test piece of wood siding on the reclaimed range hood cover.

Once you get a rhythm going it is fairly simple. In no time you can have this project done. I had this baby whipped out in one morning! The finished result just makes me {heart eyes} over it!

The angle piece of wood siding fit perfectly on the range hood cover.
The angle piece of wood siding fit perfectly on the range hood cover.
The wood siding is a perfect touch for a range hood cover!
The wood siding is a perfect touch for a range hood cover!

Z Door Goes Up

A fabulously easy barn style z door!

Ok y'all my confidence is soaring after my build on Monday! Monday was a fabulous day. No. Kids. Yay! AND I built an awesome fabulous z door for my closet! You may have gotten some sneaky peak on my Instagram account, if you don't follow me, click here.

I am going to fill you in on how I built my "z" style barn door. Now this is fairly simple project. However sometimes the simplest things go awry when I get behind the "construction" of a project. This was a super simple DIY job. And I had so much fun...I cannot wait to build some more. My biggest problem is how am I going to finish this one. {I finished this masterpiece in aged white finish, for tutorial click here.}


  • 7 - 1"x6" @8' {my door was 30" wide}
  • 1 1/4" screws


  • table saw
  • miter saw
  • drill
  • shims
  • level
  • clamps {especially if you plan on gluing the boards}

Start off by getting the exact measurements for your z door. We put in this doorway over 8 years ago...meaning our skills weren't as honed then. The door was one dimension on the top and another on the bottom. Yay. I also had fun with the height of the door. Old farmhouses generally have sloping floors and ours is no exception.

Door opening for my fabulous Z Door

Once you have your measurements get your paper, scrap or graph, and start deciding where you want your  "z". Some people do it old style, like I did, others do the new style where upper and lower horizontal braces are flush with the top and bottom of the door. While designing allow for your hardware. I used gate hardware like this. And remember to give your self a little gap! You need the gap, it prevents rubbing and loosing the finish.

Z Door - Always good to write your measurements down.

I wasn't to concerned about the door gaps, it was more important to me that the door was plumb. If framing our the door definitely make it plumb. It will save you grief later. My door width ended up being 29 1/2". I made the height 76 1/2". Take 4 of your boards and strip them to 5" with your table saw. {Standard dimensions for a 1" x 6" are 3/4" by 5 1/2".} Take 2 of your boards and strip them down 4 3/4". NOTE: stripping boards to these dimensions will get you a 29 1/2" wide door. Cut 2 boards to 29 1/2". You can choose to strip them to whatever width you choose.

Now I had a funky angle to contend with. So I cut the length and angle board by board starting with the short side. Now you could also build the door to overall height and then cut the angle. Which probably would have been easier. But that would not work for me since our farmhouse has "character" i.e. really awkward stairs.

Once the angled boards were cut I laid them down on my floor/level surface and clamped the boards together. I then placed the horizontal part of the "z" where I wanted it. About 9 1/2" down from the short side.

Z Door construction is really simple.

Use the 1 1/4" screws to attach the Z door top and bottom horizontal boards. You can also use wood glue for added integrity. Since I was cutting each board individually, darn stairs, I attached one board at a time.

Next, add your angle of your "z". I am usually not very good with angles so I cut my angle board at 4 feet long. I placed it on top of the back {z side} and marked where I needed to be.

After cutting the appropriate angle with Hubby's miter saw, I tested my accuracy, perfect!

The back of your Z Door.

Close up of how your angled Z should meet on your z door.

After you have your door put together, you should be ready to put it in your opening. Now is the time to have some fun with shims. Please, please, please ask for help on this part. It will make things so much easier. I want to apologize, it is hard to juggle sometimes so I do not have pictures for this part. I placed my shims towards the top and bottom of the door trying to get somewhat even gap. More importantly I wanted the door to be plumb. {Straight up and down.} Once I got the z door centered and plumb I attached the hinges.

I had one major snafu with my build, I originally put the hinges and latch on the wrong sides! Oops. The door won't open this way.

Z door with hinges on the wrong side, but still pretty.

As a result of that silliness I had to re-shim the door. It took me about 20 minutes to fix my mistake...ah much better. I love my Z door for my closet!

Z door all finished with hinges on the right side! Yay!

Now if I could finish another project I am working on this week would be golden.

Stove Hood to the Rescue!


Pinterest - Stove Hood to the Rescue!

Stove hood in and time to reattach propane to stove!

So this interesting view came at the end of our day friday. The day was long. Hot. And fraught with bad attitudes...but it was all worth it. {The fingers in the upper right corner are handsome Hank's, he took this shot for ya.}

Kitchen missing the stove hood

I woke up recharged and anxious for the day. As you can see from the picture above our kitchen misses a critical appliance, a stove hood. Most people can live without one. Well I have lived 10 years without one and thankfully our bathroom was right next to the stove for the last 9 years and it had a bath fan. For some reason whenever I cook burgers on the skillet I ALWAYS create a haze. I was tired of it. The hubby was tired of it. The kids and dogs were tired of it.  When we decided to move the stove from its spot, I knew that meant I would be able to get a stove hood, yay! I know, sad.

30" Broan Stove Hood

We decided on this beauty,  30" black beauty from Broan...really I did after trying to get ahold of hubby, 30 minutes in the store, multiple texts to my mom that turned into a phone call to mom, and lots of whining from whichever kid I had...I try to block that part out.

I wanted it to look fancy, and not SEE the hood. AND we had no cabinets on that wall. So we had to improvise. A $300+ fan that was meant to be enclosed is just too much money for us, so I was inspired by Young House Love and there diy covered hood. We...hubby, I pulled a muscle in my hip so its hard to move...started by making a 2x4 rectangle with a board down the center roughly the same dimensions as the stove hood. Then we used 3"+ screws to attach it to the wall.

Support frame for the new stove hood

Then we had a "what now" moment...

What to do next...stove hood


After some naughty words, inconvenient positions, and more sore muscles on my part. We got the rest of the major framing up for what will be our future hood cover! Since our ceilings were angled, the hubby cut to short pieces of 2x4 at an angle and attached them to the ceiling. after installing the first one and hitting a stud, I had to sit my bottom ON the stove to hold the level to make sure everything would be kosher. Let me say one word on that, ouch. When we got to the left side we ran into a snag, no stud...then the long 2x4 came to the rescue. After getting the framing all secured to the angled ceiling, we attached a piece of 3/4" ACX to the bottom of it. Then we got into the dirty work!

Cutting the hole for the ducted stove hood!


We had dust everywhere! Not just drywall but, lath and car siding too. I swear hubby went in and out the back door 5 times to get the hole just right for the venting. The Broan hood we got can ducted or non-ducted. I went with the ducted because 1, I play with poly and such in the winter and need the ventilation and 2, I have been hearing and reading about non-ducted hoods being linked to cancer and such. I try to avoid those sorts of things as much as possible.

Attaching the stove hood to the support frame.

Once we got the framing and hole situated, and the electrical prepped, the stove hood just went right up. Seriously people, 5-6 hours of prep work and it was up in like 15 minutes. Exhilarating and depressing all at the same time. But we were all smiles by the end of it.

Princess Pea and I when we installed the stove hood.

The stove hood is all in and ready to be made pretty...and I know exactly what I am going to do with it!

Stove hood all installed!


Tarkett and DuoFoam

Thoughts from an experienced DIY'er on Tarkett laminate + DuoFoam underlayment

After all that cleaning out and demo, here, we got to tackle that flooring for Handsome Hank. If you remember, we had a puppy (he is going to be 8) accident one morning and decided it was easier to upgrade the flooring. We were on a strict budget ($100) AND I would like to note I am super picky about the locking edges. We traveled our way to Menards, we had a few options but I let Handsome Hank choose the one he know he is 6 now and big boys get to help make big decisions. He chose Tarkett Occasions in Italian Walnut. I was okay with his decision because the samples pieces clicked easily together yet it was very hard to pull apart after locked. Menards had a promotion running where you got a $25 rebate for underlayment. YAY!!

After waiting the 48 hours for the flooring to acclimate to the room, we started installing the laminate Saturday morning. But first the underlayment. We chose the DuoFoam with Self Seal( info here and available on Amazon) . I primarily chose this because I did not need an insulating factor and the budget of course. With the DuoFoam we would get all our money back in rebate. We shop a lot at Menards so this is a good thing.

The DuoFoam impressed me more than I thought it would. It was easy to install and tougher than I thought it would be. My only tip I have for you is to take some duct tape and tape the underlayment to the subfloor. It moves pretty freely.

Simple diy underlayment, DuoFoam with Self Seal

It has an awesome edge, as its name says Self Seal. One edge has this thin strip of adhesive...

The adhesive strip for DuoFoam with Self Seal underlayment.

...and the other side has a clear plastic flap to lay over the adhesive.

DuoFoam with Self Seal flap side

Just make sure you get the flap on correctly, make sure the foam edges are touching, NOT overlapping. This adhesive does not forgive. And lay one strip of this at a time. I definitely would use the DuoFoam again it was easy to install and inexpensive.

DuaFoam with Self Seal - edges touching DuoFoam with self seal - flap overlaps the adhesive strip

Now for the laminate. This is where it gets fun. Remember we chose Tarkett Occasions in Italian Walnut. Sigh. It. Was. Not. Fun. For some reason or another the short edges were a beast to get together. It took me over an hour and a half to get 2 and a half rows done. {I would also like to say that Tarkett (UK) acknowledged my complaint via twitter, awesome!}

2 and half rows after of Italian Walnut by tarkett installed.

And by the time I got to the entrance I had 4 pieces that looked like this...well this was the worst one.

One of the pieces I used as a tapping block.

The instructions said to tap the short ends together...yeah, that's not how I got it in. I ended up having to slide the short ends together (a whole row at a time), tapping with a piece like above to connect it all the rest of the way. The long lengths went down easy peasy.

Almost done with Tarkett Italian Walnut floor.

I managed to get all but the last strip down, we had plans for the evening. The hubby cut and installed it later for me. He did say that there would have been no way I would have been able to get it together the way the directions said. He had to use his muscle to force the connection. Seriously people. Whatever, it is in and it looks beautiful! Handsome Hank is happy and I am happy. And the dogs are happy because I have an easier surface to clean up the next time one of them has an accident.

Tarket Occasions Italian Walnut



I'm coming off such a high right now!!! I know this is silly but I just reorganized my cereal cabinet. Valspar Indigo Go-Go cabinet makeover

Sorry I don't have a before, but it is your standard unfinished, in stock cabinet. I love having 2 shelves now, versus the 1 before. I took everything out, painted it Valspar Indigo Go-Go. A sample I had bought for base cabinets and I thought inside a cabinet would be the best spot to test it. If I didn't like it for the cabinets it wasn't in my face. If I did like it awesome! The verdict is still out but I love it in the cabinet. After the paint dried I drilled more holes for the shelf brackets at the bottom. I took the tallest bottle and marked it a little above that. Drilled some holes and put in these little shelf things from A's old shelf that was falling apart. hardware that saved the day

Then I measured and cut the second shelf using the our miter and table saw. The exhilarating part??? I cut the bottom shelf with the table saw BY MYSELF! I know that may sound stupid, but I have always been a little leery of them and then when I had my AICD I was always concerned with interference. Well I decided today, with no one but my kids at home{possibly stupid} to try it. I had no problems AND it was the funnest {new word people} thing I have done in a long time! I wonder what I can cut next....

Natural Birch


That's what A's new floor is...and it's gorgeous. It took us about a day to get it installed {not including 2 days of prep work; Knock on Wood & Subfloor √} Yes it looks gorgeous but the best thing is her room is actually warm!!! And retaining heat, YAHOO! We scored big time on this Natural Birch floor at Menards. Real wood floor on clearance can be hard to come by. You are probably wondering why I went light, well after a friends experience with dark wood flooring and her deciding she wanted light wood flooring when she built another house I decided to copy her. She knows who she is...THANK YOU! Any way the reason I went with the light is because light handles life better. You don't notice dust and such...and you really don't notice the scratches. With 2 big dogs and active children light was a must. Now if only it would camouflage black dog hair.

Prefinished wood floor is pretty easy to install...once you get started. And if your boards are straight. My big tip for this is lay out your first couples of rows and sort of dry run it. Then if everything looks kosher, carefully install your first row. Now they tell you to cut a starter piece for the next row, but that is wasteful. I use the remnant of the last piece in the first row. This works extremely well, just make sure you have at least 5 inches between your short end seams. The first 10 rows seem to take forever and can make one a tense ball of anxiety {hello, me} hoping it looks good when finished. After that though it usually goes by quick.

You will notice in the second image you see a hammer...yeah we installed this old school style. Believe me it can be done. Takes longer. But it can be done. Another tip, keep a 5-6 inch piece of flooring to use as a tapping yourself some dough and use that cash and another project...or save up for that nailer.

Dry fitting the first rows of a Natural Birch floor

Installing Natural Birch floor the hard way with a hammer

Break time with dogs on natural Birch floor

Finishing the Natural Birch floor

Easy to install natural birch floor...all finished


{As you can tell we take time to play with our middle puppy.} Towards the end of the project I succumbed to the kids nasty cold they have and it made bending over a pleasure. Getting A's room warm and finishing the natural birch floor so she can get back in her room was so worth it though! I have big plans for A's room and she is loving going through pinterest and designing her bedroom. I am going slow in creating it though, I want her "forever room" to be perfect!

Subfloor √

Day 3 of A's warm up meant subfloor time. Her room is so much warmer than before!Subfloor - relaxing in a warmish room

Subfloor - starting to lay the new subfloor. We had to add support for the floor in one spot. Subfloor - fixing a flaw.

Subfloor - the added 2x to make install easier

We used 3 4x8 sheets of 3/4" plywood to give us a good footing. Subfloor- first layer done!

First layer done (3/4")! On to the next layer, we used a 1/4" thick sheets to give us a smooth transition to the other half of the subfloor we did not have to take out. Subfloor - adding the 1/4" to make it smooth.

Second layer done (1/4")! Subfloor check!! Subfloor - first row of tar paper

We actually got all the felt paper done! Tomorrow we start laying the floor, woot woot!

You can click here to read about how we insulated the crawlspace and here to find out what we put on for flooring.